Exploring Nerja: A Seaside Town with Charm
Andalusia is a beautiful region situated in the southernmost part of Spain, bordering the Mediterranean Sea to the south, and Portugal to the west. It is the second-largest autonomous community in Spain. The region is characterized by diverse landscapes, including long sandy beaches, picturesque coastal areas, rugged mountains, and fertile plains. The Sierra Nevada mountain range, located in the eastern part of Andalusia, is home to mainland Spain's highest peak, Mulhacén, which stands at 3,478 m (11,411 ft). There are many other mountainous areas including the mountain in the Sierra Alhama, Almijara, and Tejeda Natural Park, with Pico Maroma as the highest peak at 2,066 m (6,778 ft).
The coast of Andalusia is known as the Costa del Sol, and this is where you will find the charming village Nerja. The town is located in the eastern part of the Costa del Sol, approximately 50 km (31 miles) east of Malaga. It is known for its stunning beaches, crystal-clear waters, and dramatic cliffs. Nerja has a laid-back and relaxed atmosphere, with narrow streets, whitewashed houses, and a range of cozy restaurants and bars offering delicious Andalusian cuisine.
Nerja has a population of about 22,000 inhabitants, with a mix of Spanish locals and expats. However, this number almost doubles during the summer months due to the influx of tourists.
The Costa del Sol enjoys a typical Mediterranean climate, characterized by mild winters and hot summers. Summers are hot and dry, with temperatures ranging from 25 to 35°C (77 to 95°F). In some cases, temperatures can even exceed 40°C (104°F). Winters (December to February) are mild and relatively cooler, with temperatures range from 8 to 18°C (46 to 64°F). Spring and autumn have more pleasant temperatures in between these ranges. The Costa del Sol is known for its abundant sunshine, with an average of about 320 sunny days per year. The area experiences minimal rainfall, so little that it usually leads to a water shortage during the summer months. Due to the temperatures, the sea temperature only goes to a minimum of around 14°C (53°F), making it possible to take a (sometimes fresh) dip all year.
Why Nerja?
Nerja's charm as a holiday destination is greatly enhanced by its Mediterranean climate, which attracts many tourists seeking pleasant weather year-round. Combined with a bunch of beautiful beaches, a vibrant dining and nightlife scene, and various activities, Nerja offers an ideal setting for a perfect vacation. The town's historic center is characterized by narrow winding streets, whitewashed houses, and a traditional Spanish ambiance. You can immerse yourself in the local culture, and explore the numerous shops, restaurants, and bars.
Nerja showcases an impressive coastline that stretches for approximately 16 kilometers (10 miles), providing access to a variety of beaches. Among the popular options are Burriana Beach, the long golden sand beach; playa Calahonda, showcasing a beautiful cove; Playa Carabeo, a picturesque spot nestled along the coast; and Playa de Maro, located in the neighboring town of Maro. If you go even further to the east, you will find many more beaches, most of which can be almost empty at times.
For those with a car, the opportunities to explore different beaches multiply, as there are many other sandy and pebbled beaches on either side of the town, a bit further away from the center.
One of Nerja's most famous 'attractions' is the Balcón de Europa (Balcony of Europe), a scenic viewpoint right in town that offers panoramic views of the Mediterranean Sea and the surrounding coastline. The town is also home to the Cuevas de Nerja (Caves of Nerja), a vast network of underground caverns that contain impressive stalactite and stalagmite formations, located just outside the town.
For outdoor enthusiasts, Nerja serves as an excellent starting point for hikes in the nearby natural parks, such as the Sierra de Almijara, to explore the hills and mountains. Adventurers can also explore the cliffs and coves by hiking along the picturesque coastline.
Moreover, Nerja's central location makes it an ideal base for further exploration. Travelers can easily visit nearby cities such as Malaga and Granada, each with its own unique cultural attractions. Alternatively, they can venture into the hills to experience the nearer village of Frigiliana.
Our Home Base(s) in Nerja
During our 6-month stay in Nerja, we resided in two different places. At first it wasn't easy to find the right place. We wanted to stay for a few months, so we were looking for a place that felt good. After weeks of exploration and property visits, we stumbled upon a beachfront apartment through VRBO. This was not available for the whole period, but that wasn't a problem.
This apartment was located right on Burriana Beach. It had a balcony literally looking over the beach. Burriana is the biggest beach in Nerja, just a little outside the center. Yet due to its popularity, some shops, bars and restaurants are established here too. The two-bedroom apartment was fully equipped and provided us with everything that we needed. The WiFi was very stable and worked perfectly. There was even a parking garage in the building, so we always had a place to park our car.
For our second place we found ourselves in the heart of the town, just a few steps away from the iconic Balcón de Europa. Although it was not far from our first place, the felt quite different due to its more lively surroundings. We came across this place on Airbnb, but eventually contacted the agency via their local website, because we had been in touch with them before. This apartment was somewhat smaller, but had a much bigger outside area. The rooftop terrace was huge and offered views on both the hills behind us and the Mediterranean in front of us. The apartment was also fully equipped and provided with good WiFi. There was no parking place as the apartment was right in the center. However, there is a big space dedicated for parking in the center that we could use.
Throughout our time in Nerja, we loved the charm of its winter/low season, enjoying the pleasant weather while escaping the hustle and bustle of the summer crowds.
Settling Into Nerja
Spanish serves as the official language spoken in Nerja, much like the rest of Spain. However, due to the big tourism industry, many locals also have some proficiency in English.
In Nerja, the official currency is the Euro (€). ATMs can be found throughout the town, providing convenient cash withdrawal services. We discovered that the ATM located on the square attached to Balcón de Europa at Unicaja Banco offered the most favorable fees for us. Nevertheless, most establishments, including hotels, restaurants, and supermarkets, readily accept debit and credit cards. While some smaller shops, bakeries, or ice cream places may prefer cash on occasion. It is also not uncommon to pay rent (especially if you are renting long term) in cash.
In general, prices in this area are fairly cheap, whether in shops, restaurants, or supermarkets. Depending on the season, rental costs may rise significantly, particularly during the summer months when numerous tourists seek short or long-term accommodations.
The town has a variety of smaller and larger supermarkets and stores. Among the prominent ones are the two Mercadonas situated on the town's edges, the Carrefour, and the Lidl. The Lidl offered the most competitive prices, however, Mercadona proved to be more convenient at times and is much better for finding more local ingredients and products.
As a coastal town, Nerja is of course home to an array of beautiful beaches, with Burriana Beach being the largest and most prominent. Stretching widely on the town's eastern side, Burriana offers calm waters and a golden sand. The beach caters to various amenities, including (sup and kayak) rental services, bars, restaurants, and shops. Just east of Nerja, nestled in a picturesque cove, lies Playa de Maro, a stunning natural beach known for its turquoise waters, dramatic cliffs, and tranquil surroundings. Perfect for snorkeling, swimming, and sunbathing, Playa de Maro's popularity can lead to occasional crowds. Not far from there, you'll find Playa de la Caleta, a smaller, more tranquil beach offering the same exquisite waters, ideal for swimming and snorkeling. For those willing to venture a bit further out of town, Playa de las Alberquillas presents a fantastic option. It consists of clean pebble stones and clear waters, this hidden gem is often less frequented by visitors.
If exploring beyond the town is not your preference, Nerja provides ample beach options within its bounds as well. Playa Calahonda, Playa la Caletilla, and Playa la Torrecilla are all conveniently situated in town, ready to welcome beachgoers with their own distinct charms.
Local bars & restaurants for food and drinks;
Redondo - for tapas and drinks
Little Italy - for very cheap Italian pizza's
La Fuente - for Italian food
Wai Wai Wok - for Thai food (also for take out)
Ayo - for the best paella
Anahi - for coffee, lunch or a drink with a view
Portofino - for Italian food
Goa Town - for Indian food
Our Southern Spain Stories
During our 6-month stay, we had plenty of time to thoroughly explore the area, engaging in various activities, especially during the weekends. Our adventures included hikes, visits to neighboring cities and towns, and many leisurely beach walks and stays.
Among the hikes we embarked on, the one leading to Pico Maroma was one of our favorites. Nestled in the Sierra de Tejeda, Almijara, and Alhama Natural Park, this challenging yet rewarding trek took us to the highest peak in the region, Pico Maroma, soaring at an impressive 2,066 meters (6,778 feet) above sea level. The panoramic views of the Mediterranean Sea, the Axarquia region, and the majestic nearby mountains left us breathless. When preparing for this hike, be mindful to check the weather, as it can be both sunny on top, however you could also run into snow-covered terrain (depending on the season).
For a closer-to-home hike, we ventured towards the El Cielo peak, another captivating trail within the same natural park. Though somewhat challenging at the end, where it gets really steep, the reward of reaching the summit was well worth it, granting us breathtaking vistas of both the Mediterranean Sea and Nerja below. The park also offered an array of smaller, easier hikes, providing endless opportunities to embrace nature's beauty during our extended stay.
Somewhere in January, we visited El Torcal Natural Park near Antequera. El Torcal Natural Park is a remarkable and unique limestone mountain range located about 12 kilometers south of Antequera in the province of Malaga. The park's main attraction is its extraordinary karst landscape, which consists of limestone formations sculpted by wind and water over geological ages. The rocks have been weathered into a variety of fascinating shapes, including columns, arches, and towers, creating a surreal and otherworldly setting. The park features several strategically placed viewpoints that provide breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. Great for a day tip!
During our stay we visited many of the nearby towns and cities. We even visited many of them twice, as we had the time and there was much to see. They are listed based on proximity to Nerja.
Frigiliana is a charming whitewashed village settled on a hillside in the province of Malaga. With its narrow cobblestone streets, vibrant flowers, and stunning views, Frigiliana offers a typical Andalusian experience. The village retains its Moorish heritage and is home to well-preserved historic architecture. You can explore artisanal shops, dine in traditional restaurants, and immerse yourself in the tranquility of this beautiful hilltop village. From Nerja, it is even possible to walk to Frigiliana.
Malaga is a vibrant coastal city in the Andalusian region of southern Spain. It offers a perfect blend of historical charm and modern attractions. Here you can explore its rich history, including the birthplace of the renowned artist Pablo Picasso, and marvel at architectural landmarks such as the Alcazaba fortress and Malaga Cathedral. The city offers beautiful beaches, a lively cultural scene, and a wide range of restaurants, bars, and shops.
Marbella is a town on the Costa del Sol known for its luxurious lifestyle and beautiful beaches. Its charming Old Town, with narrow streets and picturesque squares, contrasts with the glitzy marina and upscale beach clubs of Puerto Banús. The Old Town's authentic atmosphere is highlighted by its bustling local markets, quaint squares, and inviting tapas bars where locals and visitors alike gather to savor traditional Spanish cuisine.
Granada is a captivating city nestled at the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains. It is most famous for the breathtaking Alhambra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Spain's most significant historical landmarks. The Alhambra is a palace and fortress complex with stunning architecture and lush gardens. Besides the Alhambra, Granada's historic quarter, the Albayzin, features narrow winding streets. The city offers a vibrant nightlife, excellent cuisine, and cultural activities.
Tarifa is a picturesque town situated at the southernmost tip of mainland Spain, where the Mediterranean Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean. It is renowned for its stunning long beaches, making it a top destination for windsurfing, kitesurfing, and other water sports. The town's narrow, cobbled streets are lined with charming whitewashed buildings and offer a relaxed and bohemian atmosphere. Tarifa is also a popular spot for observing migratory birds and a gateway to explore the nearby natural beauty of the Tarifa Natural Park.
In the previous section, we mentioned the many beaches around. We have visited and enjoyed them all. Sometimes just for a walk or for a lunch in a nice setting, but most of the times we would swim too, regardless of it being winter.
Nerja proved to be an ideal escape from colder climates, offering more than enough to spend six month here. We enjoyed the slower pace of life, the pleasant climate, the delightful cuisine, and the warm atmosphere.
