Getting to Know Ericeira
Ericeira is a coastal town located in the municipality of Mafra, in the Lisbon District of Portugal, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. It is situated approximately 35 km (22 miles) northwest of the capital city Lisbon, and has some 10,000 inhabitants. The town was built on a cliff top, providing visitors with great views of the sea. The beautiful historic center has cobblestone streets and traditional white and blue houses. Originally, it used to be a fishing village, and while it has kept that charm, it has gained many trendy shops and restaurants to accomocate tourism.
The town has become more and more popular for tourists in the last few years, especially among surfers, making it a trendy destination nowadays. This growth in tourism drove the increase in hotels, Airbnbs, guesthouses, and other rentals. The popularity among surfers has led to the increase of the amount of surf schools and camps along the coast.
The climate here is greatly influenced by the Atlantic Ocean and offers mild winters and warm summers. Winters are wet, especially from November to January, with temperatures ranging from 8 to 15°C (46 to 59°F). The summers tend to be warm and dry, as is typical in most places in Southern Europe. In Ericeira, you will find average temperatures between 17 to 28°C (63 up to 83°F), with a nice ocean breeze. Throughout the year, there will be many hours filled with sunshine.
Due to the influence of the Atlantic, the sea temperatures are fresher than for example in the south of Portugal. The sea temperatures vary from 15°C (59°F) in winter up to 30°C (86°F) in summer, with the warmer temperatures remaining in autumn.
Things to Do In and Around Ericeira
As just mentioned, Ericeira enjoys a delightful Mediterranean climate that appeals to visitors all year round. Like many other European destinations, Ericeira offers a great holiday spot for those seeking relaxation or for those looking for exciting activities. The pleasant temperatures, coupled with the refreshing ocean breeze, make it a perfect place for both.
Along the coastline, you'll find many stunning beaches suitable for sunbathing, swimming, surfing, and various water activities. Due to the rocky and coastline full of high cliffs, it also provides great hiking opportunities.
As a renowned mecca for surfers, Ericeira attracts wave enthusiasts from all over the world. You can watch skilled surfers ride the Atlantic swells, or even join in the excitement by taking surf lessons. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced wave rider, Ericeira has a variety of surf spots to suit every skill level. And if surfing isn't your thing, you might still enjoy watching one of the many surf competitions held in the area.
The enchanting historic center of Ericeira, with its narrow cobbled streets and traditional white houses adorned with colorful tiles, is a perfect place for leisurely strolls. Explore the town with its charming shops, cafés, and restaurants. Don't miss the chance to try the seafood dishes and taste the fresh catch of the day.
Ericeira's strategic location also makes it an excellent base for exploring other nearby places. With Lisbon being only a two-hour drive away, it makes up for a great day trip or overnight stay. Experience the vibrant energy of the Portuguese capital, appreciate its historical landmarks, and enjoy the city's vibrant nightlife.
Furthermore, Ericeira's proximity to the captivating town of Sintra provides an opportunity to explore the enchanting castle, lush gardens, and mystical atmosphere there.
Our Accommodation and Neighborhood
At first, we were on the lookout for a place in the Lisbon area, and Ericeira wasn't really on our radar yet. However, we started looking for an apartment very last minute, so we were slowly running out of options. Our goal was to find a place to stay for four weeks, in a place with plenty of activities to keep us entertained in the surrounding area. That's when Ericeira caught our attention, and we decided to focus our search there. Despite being late with booking an accommodation, luck was on our side, and we managed to secure a great apartment through Flatio, a website specializing in monthly rentals.
The apartment we found was a mere two minutes away from the main square and just a few more minutes from the beach. It was nestled right in town, yet tucked away on a quiet street—a perfect blend of convenience and tranquillity. The apartment itself had all the essentials we needed. Though the promised stable WiFi could be a bit spotty at times, it did work out in the end.
We had our car with us, but the apartment did not come with a designated parking place. The streets surrounding the apartment had numerous parking spaces. They would usually fill up quickly, but thankfully, most of the time, we managed to find a spot quite close to our place.
As our stay fell in the month of June, summer season was about to start. We had many days full of sunshine and if the sun was out, temperatures were so comfortable. We were able to go to the beach, take a swim in the (still fresh) ocean and enjoy food and drinks on the terraces outside. We could notice the influence of the Atlantic, as it was windy, rainy and still a bit cold at times and especially at night.
Tips for Remote Workers and Long-Term Stays
In Ericeira, like many other places in Portugal, English is commonly spoken in touristic areas, but incorporating a few basic Portuguese phrases can enrich your experience and help with your day-to-day interactions.
The local currency is the Euro and card payments are widely accepted. While we kept some cash with us, we primarily used our cards for transactions. Prices in general align with what we had expect in Portugal. However, one aspect that came as a surprise was the cost of rent, which turned out to be higher than we had anticipated. This might have been influenced by the upcoming high season and our late booking, potentially leading to an increased price.
As you wander from the city center, you'll find several larger supermarkets conveniently located. A few minutes from the main square is a Continente, a sizeable supermarket offering a variety of products. However, the more budget-friendly options are Aldi and Lidl. These are just a 15-minute walk from the main square, both in the same direction. Additionally, across from Lidl, you'll find a large Intermarché, any items that aren't available at the other supermarkets.
Ericeira has multiple beaches, each offering unique experiences. The main town beach, Praia dos Pescadores, is popular for relaxation and swimming, as it benefits from some protection from the Atlantic waves due to the nearby dock. Many beaches on the north side of town are perfect for surfing and surf lessons. On the southern side of the center, Praia da Baleia and Praia do Sul almost blend into one another. Praia do Sul, being slightly wider, offers a more comfortable space for lounging.
During our stay in the area, we had the freedom of a car, so we didn't partake in guided tours. Consequently, we don't have any information to share about tour operators here.
The majority of bars and restaurants are situated in the center, and simply strolling around is enough to come across numerous dining choices. During our stay here, we've been cooking frequently. However, when we spent a weekend in Lisbon, we dined out extensively, so we'll be sharing some of our favorite places there as well.
Local bars & restaurants for food and drinks in Ericeira;
Mar das Latas - for sunset drinks
Pão da Villa Central - for all day food and drinks
Local bars & restaurants for food and drinks in Lisbon;
Qosqo - for Peruvian food and drinks
Basílio - for good breakfast, brunch, and lunch
Café Dozo - for great sushi
Rooftop The Art Inn Lisbon - for rooftop drinks (and snacks)
Quiosque das Portas do Sol - for drinks with a view
Tazza in Giro - for breakfast and lunch
Neighbourhood Cafe Lisbon - for breakfast, lunch, coffee, and drinks
How We Lived in and Explored This Coastal Town
As always, we spent a lot of time just walking around town. The streets were charming, and the town offered a nice atmosphere. The mix of fishing village and surf culture was unique, and you could feel the laid-back vibe all around. Often we would try to catch the sunset at the end of the day.
Of course, a visit to Ericeira wouldn't be complete without spending time on one of its beautiful beaches. We found ourselves drawn to Praia dos Pescadores, the main town beach, being the most convenient one to swim due to its calmer waters. We also took our car and ventured beyond the town to explore other beaches in the area.
Given that we were in this coastal town, surfing was essentially a must-do activity for us. Although both of us had surfed before, we decided to take some classes to improve our skills. We enrolled in a surf class at one of the local surf schools, Ericeira Surf Camp, located in the center. The instructors were friendly and experienced, guiding us through the basics. However, due to the popularity of surfing here, the water was extremely crowded. Surf schools were lined up right next to each other, with classes full of people trying to surf in close proximity.
As mentioned, we also spend a weekend in Lisbon. We couldn't resist taking a trip to the city, as it was only two hours away by car and we had a birthday to celebrate! We found a convenient and affordable parking spot at the Terminal de Cruzeiros. We stayed in Alfama for the weekend. We walked around (a lot), enjoyed breakfast, lunch, and dinner at various places and just enjoyed the city. On our way back, we made a stop at the Torre de Belém, but this was way too touristy for us. We had a coffee on the waterside and enjoyed watching all the boat activities on the water.
Another place we visited in the area, was Sintra. A cute, mystical town just 30 mins away from us. We wandered through the small streets of the city, and then made our way up to The Pena Palace. A beautiful palace on top of a hill in all its colorful glory. To reach the palace, you can take a bus, shuttle, or taxi, or choose for the scenic walk through the woods, covering a distance of about 3 km (1.8 miles), which typically takes 30 to 40 minutes. The trail is well-marked with signs guiding you along the way. This is what we did, and we were happy we decided to walk. The route is surrounded with plants, trees and flowers, and you also encouter some beautiful old buildings on the way up.
A month turned out to be a great duration for us in Ericeira. It allowed us to engage in all the activities we wanted to do and explore the captivating surroundings. The only thing we missed out on was visiting Nazaré. We were hoping to witness the famous massive waves, but unfortunately, the season wasn't right, and we ended up not visiting the place. Ericeira is a great place to base yourself for a while. To either just enjoy Ericeira, or the wider area.