Oaxaca: The Heartbeat of Mexico’s Culture
Oaxaca de Juárez (commonly referred to as Oaxaca) is a city with an estimated population of around 262,000 people and lies in the Valley of Oaxaca, surrounded by the Sierra Madre mountains. It is situated at an altitude of 5085 ft (1550 m) above sea level. Its altitude, combined with its subtropical climate, contributes to its pleasant weather. Temperatures generally range from 64 to 77°F (18 to 25°C); however, in the summer, they can rise to 82°F (28°C). Like much of Mexico, the rainy season usually stretches from May to October, with minimal rainfall in other months. Oaxaca typically experiences around 300 sunny days each year.
Oaxaca is renowned for its rich indigenous culture and history. To this day, many indigenous groups, including the Zapotec and Mixtec, reside in the city, heavily influencing its cuisine, traditions, arts, and crafts. Indigenous culture is also evident in the architecture, blending with colonial styles. Its historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage site, containing many well-preserved colonial buildings, churches, and plazas.
Oaxaca is celebrated for its food due to its incredibly rich culinary heritage, diverse range of ingredients, and unique traditional cooking techniques. The city is home to numerous indigenous groups, such as the Zapotec and Mixtec peoples, who have preserved their culinary traditions for generations. These communities have passed down their unique recipes and cooking methods, creating a rich tapestry of flavors and dishes.
Why Oaxaca Captivates Every Traveler
Oaxaca is a city bursting with cultural heritage, culinary delights, and natural beauty, attracting visitors with its vibrant allure. Visit the place and immerse yourself in the rich indigenous traditions, marvel at the colonial architecture and archaeological sites, and explore the fascinating museums that showcase the city's historical and cultural significance.
The combination of ancient culinary traditions, diverse ingredients, and an emphasis on preserving cultural heritage has earned Oaxaca a well-deserved reputation as a food lover's paradise. Sample the diverse and flavorful cuisine, from one of the seven different types of mole to tlayudas, deliciously large tortillas topped with savory delights. Try mezcal and chapulines or taste the local quesillos and tamales. The fertile land in the region gives plenty of fresh and unique ingredients. Oaxaca is known for its abundant variety of chili peppers, as well as exotic fruits, vegetables, herbs, and native edible flowers. You can embark on food tours, join cooking classes, or lose yourself in the vibrant ambiance of traditional markets. Oaxaca also has a thriving street food culture, with food stalls and carts offering a wide variety of mouthwatering snacks and dishes.
Oaxaca is renowned for its vibrant markets, where you can immerse yourself in the local culture and find a wide array of goods. The Mercado Benito Juárez and Mercado 20 de Noviembre are two of the most popular markets in Oaxaca de Juárez. These bustling markets offer a treasure trove of fresh produce, spices, handicrafts, textiles, ceramics, and traditional food stalls serving delicious Oaxacan cuisine. Next to these markets, visitors will find many more shops and workshops that also showcase woven textiles, pottery, woodcarvings, and sculptures from the indigenous cultures around the city.
Nature enthusiasts will find comfort in the stunning surroundings of Oaxaca. Explore the majestic mountains, verdant forests, and cascading waterfalls that adorn the landscape. A special natural site located in the Mexican state of Oaxaca is Hierve del Agua. It is famous for its stunning petrified waterfalls, formed by mineral-rich water flowing over the edge of a cliff, leaving behind deposits of calcium carbonate. Over time, these deposits have created large, cascading rock formations resembling frozen waterfalls. Hierve el Agua is not only known for its unique geological formations but also for its picturesque natural pools, where you can swim and enjoy the breathtaking mountainous surroundings. Popular among tourists and locals alike, it offers a refreshing swim.
For history fanatics, a visit to the ancient Zapotec city of Monte Albán, just outside the city, provides insight into this civilization's past. Nestled atop a panoramic mountain ridge, the site features impressive structures, including pyramids, palaces, and ball courts, offering a glimpse into the rich history and cultural heritage of the region.
And last but not least, unwind in Oaxaca de Juárez's relaxed atmosphere, where charming streets, inviting plazas, and sidewalk cafes beckon you to embrace a slower pace of life. Take in the warm hospitality of the locals as you immerse yourself in Mexican culture, savoring local delicacies, and partaking in the festivities that grace the city throughout the year.
Living in a Co-living
After hearing promising stories, we wanted to spend some time in Oaxaca. We were planning on staying here for 1 or 2 weeks, depending on what we could find and how we would like the city. Having enjoyed our coliving experience in Puerto Escondido, we hoped to find something similar here.
We conducted our search for accomodation before arriving. We found a large coliving space right in the center of Oaxaca de Juárez. It looked promising online, with modernly furnished rooms and a spacious outdoor kitchen. Due to limited availability, we decided to book 2 weeks upfront. The coliving was conveniently located just a few minutes from the zócalo, the main square. It featured 1 dormitory and a little over 11 private rooms. In addition to a shared kitchen, there was also an outdoor lounge area and a fantastic shared workspace, frequented by all residents. The workspace offered numerous desks and smaller rooms for meetings. Overall, the coliving space was well-equipped and offered everything we needed. We stayed in two different rooms, both spacious and comfortable. Additionally, we had the option to participate in a variety of activities organized daily, such as yoga classes, food tours, or museum visits.
During our stay, all the rooms were occupied, resulting in around 25 - 35 people living there. With people coming and going, there was a constant rotation in the group. The coworking space provided a peaceful environment for work, while the kitchen and other chill areas on the roof offered opportunities for socializing. However, residents could also retreat to their rooms if they preferred privacy or relaxation. This created a welcoming atmosphere among like-minded individuals. Where you could share your experiences from exploring the city, and get recommendations for activities, sights, and delicious culinary finds.
Our stay occurred around May, during which the weather was warm with occasional rain and thunderstorms. The rain wasn't much of a problem, as it provided a refreshing cooldown. Throughout the day, the sun's rays made the surroundings quite warm, however, in the shade, it was very comfortable.
Life in Oaxaca: A Daily Dance of Culture and Charm
The primary language spoken in Oaxaca is Spanish. However, due to the region's diverse indigenous population, you may also encounter indigenous languages such as Zapotec, Mixtec, and others being spoken. In tourist areas and establishments, it is common to find English-speaking staff, but knowing a few basic Spanish phrases can be helpful for communication.
The official currency is the Mexican Peso (MXN). It's advisable to carry pesos when visiting Oaxaca, as cash is widely accepted. ATMs are readily available in Oaxaca de Juárez for withdrawing pesos. It's also wise to carry smaller denominations, as there is often a shortage of change. We usually withdrew money from Banco Santander.
As mentioned earlier, there are several markets in town. The two in the center are Benito Juárez and Mercado 20 de Noviembre. We preferred the latter for lunch and food, as Mercado 20 de Noviembre offers more dining options and seating areas. The Benito Juárez market, on the other hand, offers more produce and products to buy.
For purchasing fresh produce, we frequented another market located outside the city center called Mercado de la Merced. This market offers just as many, if not more, products at better prices. Although it's a bit farther from the center, it's worth the trip.
Many people have learned about Oaxaca through Netflix's Street Food: Latin America, which features an episode dedicated to Oaxaca. The episode highlights the story of Doña Vale and her memelas. To visit her, you'll need to go to another market, Central de Abastos mercado, located a bit outside the city center. This market is very local and crowded, so it's recommended not to carry valuables with you. Once inside, look for blue signs pointing to her stand. However, she is only open in the mornings, so plan accordingly if you're there to try the memelas.
Another notable spot from the episode is Empanadas del Carmen, a street vendor located in the city center not far from Santo Domingo church. Here, you can enjoy their typical empanadas, available in the afternoon and evening. We stumbled upon this place by accident but recognized it from the show because it had 'Netflix' on the sign. There are various dishes to try here, but we highly recommend the typical empanada amarillo; it's super tasty!
During our stay in Oaxaca, we participated in one tour, and we needed a shuttle/transfer service for two activities. The tour we chose was a day trip to Hierve el Agua and a mezcal distillery, which we booked online via the Viator website. There are various options for this day tour, but we opted for just visiting the Hierve el Agua site and the Mezcal distillery to ensure we had enough time to explore Hierve el Agua.
The first shuttle we took was to Monte Albán. We didn't book it in advance; instead, we walked to the departure point ('Bus Monte Albán' on Google Maps) and purchased our return tickets there. The other activity that included a transfer was a Temazcal experience at Temazcal Oaxaca, located outside of town. The transfer to the location was included, and we were picked up and dropped off in front of our coliving space, but you can read more in the next section.
For laundry services, we found a large laundry facility on the east side of town called Silav Laundry and Dry Clean. Initially expecting a typical small laundry place, we were surprised to find a factory-like setup. The prices were reasonable, and we were able to pick up our laundry the next day, which was convenient.
Local bars & restaurants for food and drinks;
Restaurants/food stands in Mercado 20 de Noviembre
Taquería Tacomer
Empanadas del Carmen streetfood
Mecado de Organika
Mezzaluna for drinks or dinner on a rooftop terrace
Our Experience Exploring Oaxaca
One of the main reasons we were drawn to Oaxaca de Juárez was its food reputation. That's why we spent many hours wandering around the city, eager to sample its culinary delights and explore the food stands in the markets, serving their local customers.
Simply strolling through Oaxaca offers a taste of its rich culture. The old buildings, the tantalizing aroma of delicious food, the vibrant markets selling handmade crafts, and the bustling plazas serving as meeting spots—all contribute to the city's charm. You'll stumble upon hidden gardens, ornate churches, and encounter friendly locals happy to share their city with you. Walking around Oaxaca was always an enriching experience for us.
Given its size, there was always something new to discover. With numerous neighborhoods and an abundance of museums, rooftop bars, and shops nestled within the city blocks, boredom was never a concern.
To find food, we often ventured into the markets. As mentioned, Mercado 20 de Noviembre was our go-to spot for food. This hall houses many different food stands, most with small seating areas where you can watch your meal being prepared right before your eyes. It's a popular spot among locals. Oaxaca is renowned for its moles, with seven different types, we couldn't resist trying a few. At Mercado 20 de Noviembre, we sampled two different variants. The most famous and traditional mole is made with many different ingredients, including cocoa. We thoroughly enjoyed the moles; while the flavor can be intense, it's definitely worth trying for everyone.
On one of our first days in Oaxaca, we also took a walking tour. Multiple walking tours are available every day, offered by different companies and focusing on various themes. We usually opt for a general walking tour that provides insights into the city's history, traditions, and local landmarks. It's an excellent way to familiarize oneself with a new city and gain a deeper understanding of its culture. We joined a walking tour by Oaxaca Free Walking Tour, which took us around the city, offering insights into local traditions, pointing out notable landmarks, and providing valuable food recommendations.
It was time to try something new here: a temazcal ceremony. A temazcal is a traditional Mesoamerican steam bath or sauna used for therapeutic and ritual purposes. Although we had heard of it during our trip in Mexico, we hadn't had the chance to try it yet. In a temazcal ceremony, participants enter a small, dome-shaped structure made of stone or adobe. Inside, hot stones are placed in a pit in the center of the structure, and water is poured over them to create steam. The participants then sit down while the steam fills the space. During the ceremony, herbs such as eucalyptus, sage, or cedar can be added to the water to create aromatic steam. Traditionally, a temazcal session involves rituals, prayers, and guided meditation, with the heat and steam believed to cleanse the body, mind, and spirit.
We found a temazcal place a little outside the city and decided to give it a try. We booked it online via Temazcal Oaxaca. We were picked up from our coliving space, and after a 25-minute drive, we arrived at the temazcal place. Initially, the street was deserted, but as the gate opened, we entered into a beautiful garden. The lush greenery, abundant plants and flowers, and walls adorned with ancient Mayan-like symbols created a serene atmosphere. A friendly lady welcomed us, and while they prepared the temazcal, we were offered tea, water, and mezcal (although not traditionally part of the temazcal tradition, it's a local product often offered). We however waited the mezcal until after the steam bath.
The temazcal itself was indeed very small; we had to bend down to enter. Once inside, we couldn't stand, but we could sit on a small bench immediately. During our session, it was just us and the lady who guided us, pouring water and adding the herbs. There were no prayers or meditations, but the lady hummed melodies and even sang softly from time to time. It was a unique and intimate experience, unlike anything we had experienced before. The heat during the session was perfect, reaching between 45 and 50 degrees Celsius with high humidity. After the session, we were able to cool down and refresh by dipping into a cold bath.
Near Oaxaca de Juárez lies the ancient archaeological site of Monte Albán. Once the capital of the Zapotec civilization, it is one of the most important archaeological sites in Mexico. Flourishing as a major center of Zapotec civilization from around 500 BCE to 800 CE, Monte Albán reached its peak population estimated at around 25,000 inhabitants. The site showcases advanced urban planning, engineering, and artistic achievements, reflecting the sophistication of the Zapotec culture. Situated atop a large hilltop plateau overlooking the Oaxaca Valley, it offers impressive views of the surrounding landscape. The site features an impressive complex of monumental buildings, including temples, pyramids, palaces, and ballcourts, most of which visitors can climb.
While many tours from Oaxaca are arranged to this site, we opted for transportation only, rather than a full tour. We didn't book anything in advance but visited the ticket office on the day itself. The bus ride took about 40 minutes, and we spent 2-3 hours exploring the site. On our return journey, we had to wait a bit longer than expected for the bus back, but it eventually arrived to pick us up.
As mentioned, we did one tour in Oaxaca; the Hierva del Agua + Mezcal tour. While you can reach the natural wonder with public transport, we opted for a tour to ensure convenience and ample time at the site. We found one that offered more of a shuttle service than a guided tour, allowing us plenty of freedom to explore. Our journey to the Hierve el Agua site took just over an hour, with a stop at a bakery/coffee place along the way. Upon arrival, we had approximately three hours to wander the area, hike around the waterfalls, take a refreshing dip in the pools, and enjoy lunch at one of the many stands. The cool water was especially inviting on the hot day, rejuvenating us after our hike. After our visit, we made a stop at a mezcal distillery, where we learned about the mezcal-making process and indulged in a tasting session.
One Sunday morning, we ventured to the Mercado de Tlacolula, a massive market that truly comes alive on Sundays. Spanning a significant area within the town of Tlacolula de Matamoros, the market is made of numerous rows of stalls and sections dedicated to various goods. It sprawls across multiple streets and plazas, attracting hundreds of vendors and thousands of visitors from surrounding areas. The bustling atmosphere and diverse offerings make it a vibrant hub of commerce and cultural exchange. Taking a bus to stroll around the market for an hour or two proved to be a delightful experience, with so much happening at every turn.
Oaxaca is a fantastic city to immerse yourself in Mexican culture. There's an abundance of sights, activities, attractions, and culinary delights to experience. During our two-week stay, we managed to explore everything on our wishlist. We appreciated the city's size; it's large enough to offer diverse experiences yet small enough to feel familiar and easy to navigate. It's definitely a destination to add to your Mexican bucket list.
